Archive for ‘Landscaping’

July 22nd, 2008

How to Prepare Your Lawn for Fall This Year

Hemingway once said, “America is the land of wide lawns and narrow minds.” Now, I don’t know about narrow minds, but we definitely love our lawns. Fall is one of the most important times of the year to perform lawn care maintenance.

The process you need to follow will vary with the type of turf on your lawn. The two main types of turf grasses are cool season and warm season. The main difference is that cool season grasses require regular maintenance throughout the fall and winter seasons, while warm season grasses need to be prepped for the following spring. Common cool season grasses are ryegrasses, fescues, bluegrasses, and bentgrasses. Common warm season grasses include St. Augustinegrass, Bermudagrass, Zoysiagrass, and Buffalograss. If you are unsure what type you have on your lawn, you can take a sample to your local county extension and find out which type you have. The most important thing to remember is that maintenance doesn’t end when the grass stops growing.

The process of fall lawn care consists of the following steps:

* Test Your Soil
* Apply Herbicides for Weed Control
* Water
* Fertilize
* Mow
* Seed or Sod
* Remove Leaves and Thatch
* Maintain Equipment

Test Your Soil

The first thing you should do this season is perform a soil test to determine levels of nutrients, pH and other factors that affect the growth of your lawn. These results will help you understand what your soil needs this fall. If you need to reduce the acidity in your soil, you should apply lime. If alkalinity should be reduced, then you should apply sulfur. The Cooperative Extension Service of state universities will usually perform a soil test for a reasonable fee. You can contact them or a local service to determine how you should collect samples and where to send them.

Apply Herbicides for Weed Control

Many broadleaf weeds start to show their ugly faces in the fall. Dandelions, plantain, clover and creeping charlie are just some of the perennial weeds that come out to play. If the weeds are spread out and few in number, you can spot treat them with an herbicide. Spray container products make it easy to do spot treatments. You should complete this task while temperatures are still above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Make sure you carefully evaluate the number and types of weeds in your lawn. It is not necessary to apply herbicides over your entire lawn unless there is significant infestation. Don’t worry about crabgrass and other annual weed-like grasses. These are controlled more effectively in the spring.

Water

Even though temperatures are cooler and the growth of your grass is slowing down, the lawn still needs to be watered. This is often one of the most neglected areas of fall lawn care. Visions of cool fall and winter weather often cause lawn owners to take a vacation and forget about their lawns. But, you should continue to water until the ground is cold and freezing temperatures are on the horizon. If you have an automatic sprinkler system, you will need to use compressed air to blow out the pipes and sprinkler heads before damage occurs from a freeze.

Fertilize

If you are a lawn fanatic like me, you can make two applications of fertilizer, once now and another in the late stages of fall (late October/ early November). This will provide nutrients to your lawn over a longer growth period. Late season fertilizing often causes lawns to be the first to grow in the spring. However, the longer you wait to fertilize, the less likely it is to be beneficial. When in doubt, simply skip the final application. If your soil test indicates that your lawn has a shortage of phosphorus, then you may consider using a ‘winterizing’ type of fertilizer. Otherwise, leftover spring fertilizer or a weed and feed fertilizer is sufficient. One final thing to avoid is slow-release fertilizers. During this time of year, soil has a lower level of microbial activity which means it takes longer to break down fertilizer and make its nutrients available to the grass.

Mow

You should continue to mow your lawn throughout the fall until growth stops. It is important to keep your grass 2″ to 2 – 1/2″ tall during fall. If your grass gets too long, it will mat and risk lawn diseases like snow mold. However, if you cut it too short (less than 2″), you can diminish the lawn’s ability to make and store food for growth in the spring.

Seed or Sod

This is not always a necessary lawn care practice, but this time of year is the best time to establish or repair a lawn by seeding or sodding. Seeding and sodding should be completed as soon as possible before really cold weather sets in. If you are overseeding your lawn, you need to rake up debris and dethatch your lawn if thatch is thicker than half an inch. This ensures that the grass seed will be as close to the soil as possible. You should also aim to keep the soil moist for a few weeks while the seeds are germinating.

Remove Leaves and Thatch

When leaves begin to fall in autumn, it is important to remove them before a thick layer forms that can smother the grass. Simply raking often removes thatch from your lawn, but in bad cases of soil compaction, you may need to get a lawn aerator to perform core aeration. If you have the funds, and you’re serious about lawn care, you may want to buy an aerator. Otherwise, you can simply rent one at a local hardware or garden supply store.

Maintain Equipment

Lawn care equipment requires constant maintenance throughout, but the fall season involves a more thorough maintenance process. Upkeep can save you tons of money and heartache in the long run. Fall is a great time to perform an oil change on your mower. You should also drain the gas from your mower or add a gas stabilizer. Consult your manual before using a stabilizer, because it may void your warranty.

Remove the mower’s spark plug with a spark-plug wrench. Lubricate the spark-plug cylinder with a teaspoon of oil through its hole. Install a new spark plug, but keep the spark-plug wire disconnected. Grease where necessary, especially the rear height-adjuster on a self-propelled mower.

You should check your blade and the bolts on the unit to ensure tightness. You should also inspect and possibly sharpen your mower blade. After you have completed these steps, store the mower in a clean, dry place away from any possible ignition sources.

Final Thoughts

Following the fall lawn care practices outlined in this article will prepare your lawn for winter and reward you with a healthy, thriving lawn in the spring.

To learn more about lawn care visit Blades Lawn Care, where you’ll learn all about taking care of grass, fertilizing, and much more.

Tags: garden

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July 18th, 2008

Basic Lawn Tools For A Well Manicured Lawn

You’ve just purchased your new home and it came with an expansive patch of green grass known as a lawn. Since you care about curb appeal, and the opinion of your neighbors, you purpose to have a golf course lawn all year long.
But first, you have some major and minor purchases to make. Here are the basic tools you’ll need to keep your lawn in shape for years to come.

The Lawn Mower

You need this one not only to keep the manicured look, but also to avoid fines from your city of township for an overgrown lawn. You can spend anywhere from $125 to over $1,000 or more for this tool, and it will probably be the most expensive tool in your garage.
A good quality walk behind mower with self propulsion will run you around $300. Make sure your mower is at least 5.5 horsepower and has both bag and mulch features.

The Weed Whacker

Also known as a string trimmer, the weed whacker is the tool that gives your lawn the clean edges that will set it apart. There is nothing worse than a lawn that is cut but not edged or trimmed along driveway and fence lines.
String trimmers come in electric and gas powered. Gas powered trimmers are more mobile but cost more to operate and give off fumes and more noise. There are also cordless rechargeable trimmers available that will do a fine job for smaller homes.

Power Sweeper or Blower

This may not seem like a necessity, but if you live in a part of the country where trees lose their leaves in fall, your blower will come in very handy. Most homeowners can get away with an electric corded blower for about $30, but if your lawn is larger and you have multiple large trees, you may decide to invest in a back-pack blower that packs more power for around $500.

Fertilizer Spreader

All beautiful lawns need fertilizer and weed control, and the best way to deliver these products is through a spreader. These come in handheld models, push models and tractor pulled models.
I always recommend using a broadcast-style spreader and NOT a drop spreader as the broadcasting type offer more even coverage and are easier to use. If you buy a push spreader, look for one with air filled rubber tires and a metal frame. It will cost you around $60 but will last a lifetime.

Sprinklers and Hoses

Watering the lawn is important too. Choose a sprinkler that keeps the water in large droplets and low to the ground. This will minimize water lost to drift and evaporation. Impact sprinklers are the most common and are adjustable to cover just about any size or shape area. A metal-bodied impact sprinkler will cost you about $10.
When buying a hose, you don’t need the most expensive, but definitely not the cheapest. You should buy at least 2 medium duty hoses in varying lengths so you can run 2 sprinklers simultaneously to save time.

Before you close on your new house, consider adding these basic lawns tools to your garage collection.

Al Haneson offers lawn tips about Choosing Grass Seed and Planting Grass Seed over at his blog, Life and Lawns.

Tags: fertilizer, manicure

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July 17th, 2008

Important Information About Bonsai Tree Care

When thinking about Bonsai tree care, the most important thing to think about is proper watering. This is the type of tree that can die from both over watering and under watering. If you over water this tree you can cause a fungus to grow in the soil, which will essentially cause the roots of the tree to decompose. If the tree is not watered enough, it can suffer drought which is a lack of water and the tree will once again die. While bonsai trees can be grown indoors, at some point in order for the tree to be healthy and survive for a longer period of time it must be taken outside. Bonsai trees that are grown exclusively inside do not have a high success rate.

The soil and the pots that are used when planting a bonsai tree are extremely important as well. The type of soil you use will affect how often you feed and water your tree. The recommended soil content should be as follows, 30% grit, 70 % humus for deciduous trees. However the type of soil that you use will depend greatly on which type of bonsai tree that you grow. For example the combination of grit and humus is reversed for evergreen bonsai trees. The type of pot that you plants your bonsai tree in plays an important role as well. While there are different recommendation for pots you try to select a pot that is two third to three quarters as well as the tree is tall. It should also be half as deep as the tree is tall. A general rule is to keep the pt as high as the width of the tree trunk. This will give the tree room to grow and expand in the pot. If you have selected a pot that you that you tree has outgrown or will outgrow do not rush to replant the tree. Replanting the tree can cause some damage and cause the tree to die.

Another important part of caring for your bonsai tree is called pruning. There are different ways to prune your bonsai tree. There is branch pruning and root pruning. However, they do go hand in hand. If you are pruning the roots of you bonsai tree it is important that you also prune the branches of your tree. This will keep the tree balanced. The less foliage that you have up top means that there is less foliage that the roots have to support. If you are planning on doing some branch pruning it’s a good idea to clip the tip of the branches and the some slight pruning of the leaves. If you have branches that are crossing each other to crossing the trunk of the tree it is a good idea to cut these branches to give tree room to continue to grow. If you have twigs that are pointing straight down off the branches it is also a good idea to cut these as they will cause the branches to droop down.

For more information on bonsai tree care,tips to help you care for a bonsai tree and other bonsai tree related information visit http://www.MyBonsaiTree.com

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July 17th, 2008

Tips to Help You Care for a Bonsai Tree

Growing and caring for a bonsai tree can be both easy and difficult at the same. Therefore it is important that you know how to properly care for a bonsai tree. Care for this type of tree involves watering, pruning and proper planting. A bonsai tree requires a certain amount of sunlight and water. Too much of either can cause more harm to the tree than good and it can actually kill the tree. This is why it is important to know how to take care of the tree before you decide to grow one in your home. One of the most favourite of the bonsai trees is the ficus bonsai tree.

Caring the for the ficus bonsai tree requires a great deal of patience. This type of tree needs to be kept inside all year long. Since it is a small tree and is planted in a small pot, you can occasionally bring the tree outside to give it some fresh air. Just like with other bonsai trees the soil should be given a chance to dry out in between watering. To test the soil you can stick your finger into the soil about an inch down; if you feel moist soil then you should wait to water your tree. However, the key is to not let the soil stay dry for an extended period of time because this could kill the tree. There is a specific way to water a bonsai tree as well. You should allow the tree and the container it is in to soak for about ten minutes. Once it has soaked, you should allow the water to drain from the soil until no more water drips from the bottom of your container.

Replanting of a ficus bonsai tree is an important part of caring for a bonsai tree. It should be repotted once every two years. This is a type of tree that has a tendency to grow slowly but there are times when the bonsai tree will go through a growth spurt and if its container is somewhat small you might want to consider repotting before the two year period has expired. If you allow the tree to grow in a small pot it will begin take over the pot and as a result it will cease to grow after a period of time. If you need to change the pot in which you are growing your bonsai tree you should wait until the early months of spring to do so. After it is in the new pot, it should be watered thoroughly and then kept in the shade for at least a period of three weeks. This will give the root system time to take hold in the new pot.

Caring for the Ficus Bonsai tree means that you need to understand how your tree will react to the different temperatures and weather conditions during the different seasons. It is important that the bonsai tree is kept indoors during the winter months because it is not able to withstand cold temperatures. However, while indoors the tree must be kept in a sunny area so that it does get the proper amount of light. The temperature should be kept between 60 and 65 degrees at all times.

For more information on bonsai tree care,tips to help you care for a bonsai tree and other bonsai tree related information visit http://www.MyBonsaiTree.com

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July 17th, 2008

Overview of the Bonsai Tree

In Chinese bonsai means potted plant and is the art of miniaturization of trees by actually growing them in trees. Cultivation of the Bonsai includes techniques for growing, watering and shaping these trees and this art originated in China during the Han Dynasty. In western civilizations the word bonsai is used to mean the growing and shaping of miniature trees. Bonsai trees were used in the Japanese culture to decorate homes and gardens. The oldest known Bonsai trees can be found in Tokyo, where they are said to be four hundred to eight hundred years old.

Today the Bonsai is considered a miniature or dwarf tree; however it was not always this way. They are kept small by being cultivated and confined to pots. There is a technique that can be used to grow dwarf bonsai and keep it small. This is the art of pruning the leaves of the tree and also the roots. However, if you are pruning the leaves and roots you must do so properly because incorrect pruning can result in killing the roots and the tree.

If you are growing your tree in a confined space such as bonsai pot, then you must be sure to water the tree appropriately. If you are growing your bonsai in an area that has a great deal of sun and where the temperature gets quite hot, it is important to keep watering your tree on a regular basis. These trees have a tendency to dry out quickly if they are exposed to wind, sun and heat. However, on the other hand watering too often can cause problems as well. If you water your bonsai frequently you are taking the risk of leaving the soil wet and soggy and as a result fungi can grow in the soil, which essentially can kill your tree. It is important that you use free draining soil to prevent water logging the soil.

There are specific bonsai trees that have been designed specifically for indoor cultivation. These trees still require a great deal of sunlight and therefore an artificial environment must be created inside that will provide them with all the things that they need. There is a risk of the tree not surviving however as there is a high incidence of death amongst these trees that are grown indoors in an artificial environment. Compared to other more traditional houseplants that are grown in containers, the bonsai does not require as much soil for planting. However they do require more frequent watering due to the fact that they have less soil to draw water from.

Bonsai is a named used to denote a dwarf tree that is grown and shaped in a specific way. There are a number of different species of trees that are used in bonsai trees. For example, the Fir tree is a species of tree that is used in created a bonsai design, as is the Cedar. While some of these species tend to grow taller and larger than one would of think for bonsai, they are shaped to resemble the traditional bonsai trees of the Orient.

For more information on bonsai tree care,tips to help you care for a bonsai tree and other bonsai tree related information visit http://www.MyBonsaiTree.com

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July 15th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs Part 4

First there is the importance of a care program which includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition was considered. Then how to determine if fertilizer is needed. Then some methods of applying fertilizer are required. This article considers another method of application, placement of fertilizer and timing.

Micro-injection constitutes the direct injection of necessary nutrients into the trunk of the tree or bush. It’s an acceptable commercial use for remedying or invigorating trees demonstrating stress or decline symptoms. Nutrients can as well be solidified into gelatin capsules and imbedded in holes in the trunk. Micro-injection research is comparatively limited and outcomes are often conflicting. Boring holes, imbedding or injecting fertilizer and sealing holes could lead to trunk disfigurement and decay. Foliar applications, injections or implants would better be used only when soil application of fertilizer is unrealistic. These routines are regarded as short-term remedies for nutrient deficiencies and pest infestations. In the final analysis, suitable soil and foliar applications must be applied for a permanent cure.

Fertilizer Placement
Fertilizer should not be concentrated around the base or trunk of a tree or shrub, but should be applied over as much of the plant’s root zone as possible. For trees and shrubs, fertilizer should be applied over an area twice as large as the crown spread. Since most landscape plant roots grow in the top foot of soil, surface, but not deep application, is recommended.

Factors Affecting Fertilizer Uptake
Numerous elements impact how easily and well trees and bushes assimilate fertilizers. The most significant uptake factors are:
1.Fertilizer variant (inorganic, quick release, or fluid forms are assimilated faster than organic, slow-release, or dry forms)
2.Soil type (clay particles and organic matter assimilate or bind more nutrients than sand, so fertilizer needs to be applied more frequently in sandy soils, but with lesser rates each time due to leaching potential)
3.Soil moisture content and soil temperature (nutrient uptake is faster in moist warm soils)
4.Plant vigor (plants under stress are more ineffective in assimilating available nutrients because of damaged or decreased root systems)

Application Timing
Fertilizer should be given when plants require it, when it will be most effective, and when plants can readily take it up. Late summer and early fall fertilization may rouse new growth that is not winter hardy, and summer drought may interfere with nutrient uptake, but spring, fall, and winter applications are acceptable. A split application may be beneficial, applying half the yearly rate in early spring and the rest in the fall as or after plants go dormant.

If water is unavailable, do not fertilize at all – plants will be unable to take up the nutrients. (During a dry season, fertigation – application of fertilizer through an irrigation system can be valuable.)

Tree and bush fertilization comprises only one part of aggregate plant maintenance. Fertilization might not benefit a plant if it’s under stress from inadequate soil aeration or drainage, sodden soil, deficient light or space, or excessive pest problems. Altogether factors determining plant growth should be kept at optimal levels to guarantee plant vigor.

For container landscapes and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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July 15th, 2008

Four Things You Must Do For Your Lawn During The Hot Months

In Summer, your lawn may turn brown and go dormant in an attempt to preserve itself in preparation for the cooling of fall, but you can keep it as green as spring by following these simple steps. Following are 4 tips for homeowners on maintaining a healthy, green lawn all summer.

Water Correctly

Assuming you want to keep your lawn green all summer, you need to water 2-3 times per week in the early morning. Sprinkling in the evenings can promote fungus as the water remains hot in the lawn during the night. A couple of heavy sprinklings during the week is much better than frequent, light watering which creates a shallow root system in the turf.

Mow Your Grass Tall and Mulch It

It’s never a good idea to cut your grass low. Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single cutting. During the hot, dry summer, your lawn may not grow as fast as in the spring, but you should still maintain a regular mowing schedule and mulch or “recycle” the clippings back into the lawn. Mulching clippings returns natural moisture back into the turf.

Apply Organic Nitrogen

Organic nitrogen fertilizers applied in the summer help your lawn maintain its color and vigor. Organic fertilizers are naturally slow releasing so they won’t cause excess growth. Lawns need nitrogen during hot and humid periods to help fight off lawn diseases and fungus such as Red Thread and Dollar Spot. You should only follow this step if you plan to keep your lawn well irrigated during dry periods.

Be Wary of Grubs

Grub worms are the larvae of the Japanese Beetle and they will destroy a lawn if left to feed freely in high populations. Grubs feed on your turf’s root system, in a sense “sweeping its legs from under it” and killing large areas into the fall. There is no way to tell if your lawn is infested with grub worms until you see actual damage, so be sure to put down a long-lasting grub worm preventative treatment in early summer. There are organic controls available for grubs. Milky Spore is the most popular, but it only offers nominal control at best.

Keeping your lawn green during the hot months takes a bit more effort that in the spring. Keep an eye on every section of your turf to ensure nothing gets missed and you’re sure to be the envy of all your neighbors during late July and August barbecues!

Al Haneson offers lawn tips about everything from Lawn Striping to Dog Urine Spots over at his blog, Life and Lawns.

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July 11th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs Part 2

As part of your overall landscape plan, the importance of a care program which includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition should be considered. Here is how to determine if fertilizer is needed-
Scrutinizing the trees and shrubs visually is frequently the best general factor to apply in arriving at fertilization decisions.
Search for:
Bad leaf color (pale green to yellow)
Decreased leaf size and retention
Untimely autumn coloration and foliage drop
Decreased twig and branch emergence and retention
Overall decreased plant development and vigor
As well as detecting signs of possible nutritive deficiencies of the plants, soil and foliage analysis can be used to help ascertain or corroborate whether additional fertilization is needed.

Soil Test
Eighteen nutrients are essential for plants: carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur and nine trace minerals: iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, cobalt, nickel and chlorine. Carbon, oxygen and hydrogen function in the formation of plant cells and food creation, the first two obtained from the atmosphere and the latter gotten from water absorbed by roots.

A soil test furnishes specialized data on the potential for plant reaction to agricultural limestone and to phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In addition it provides a verifiable basis for ascertaining how much of those elements to add once they are found to be lacking. A representative soil sampling can be a challenge to get, because most nutrient-absorbing roots of trees and bushes are in the upper six inches of the soil and may stretch out two or three times beyond the radius of the crown. Consequently, in determining the nutritional demands of trees, it’s also essential to look at soil and moisture conditions; the species, age and vigor of the plants; and previous fertilization.

Nitrogen, the most typically depleted soil nutrient, furnishes the greatest growth response. Unfortunately, soil tests or analyses for accessible nitrogen are not very dependable. Nitrogen is present in different forms (e.g. nitrate, ammonium, urea) and these forms can alter rapidly in the soil. All the same, overall tree growth, especially root and shoot elongation, leaf color and leaf size, can be heightened with increases of nitrogen. Be sure not to over fertilize with nitrogen. Don’t overcompensate with greater amounts of nitrogen when fertilizing grass, bushes and trees. Nitrate leaches readily from numerous soils and can create water pollution problems.

Fertilizer Selection
An assortment of fertilizer types exist:
Complete (N-P-K) vs. Partial (one or additional select nutrients)
Organic vs. inorganic
Fast release vs. slow release
Dry (grained, pelletized, spikes, powdered, encapsulated) vs. liquid

To help determine the type of fertilizer to apply, consider the following: type of plant, time of year, desired rate of plant reaction, application methods and equipment cost, proximity to water sources, effect of soil type and pH, type of deficiency, and results of a soil test or other sampling method.

Nearly all landscape plants profit from a slow secreting nitrogen fertilizer that can be organic or inorganic. Remember that nitrogen is easily washed through the soil, but phosphorus and potassium are not, signifying they necessitate less frequent application.

NOTE: The fertilizer package has three numbers such as, 10-10-10. They represent, respectively, the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), available phosphorus (P2O5) and water-soluble potash (K2O). These figures help you choose the right fertilizer and determine how much to apply. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 10-10-10 contains 10 percent N, 10 percent P2O5 and 10 percent K2O. The remaining 70 percent is usually inert filler.

For healthy landscape and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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July 11th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs Part 3

Remember first to consider the importance of a care program which includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition. Then you need determine if fertilizer is needed. Then you will consider the various methods of applying fertilizer.

Methods of Application
Fertilizers may be put on either directly or indirectly for trees and shrubs. When sod is fertilized, tree and bush roots that stretch into the sod area absorb some of the fertilizer, and are consequently indirectly fertilized. Sod fertilization rates should be supplemented only if trees and bushes are demonstrating symptoms of nutritive deficiency.

Direct application of fertilizer may involve incorporation into the backfill soil or placement in the planting hole at planting time. However, the most common form of direct fertilizer application, broadcasting, is generally the most effective, especially relative to cost. Simply broadcasting the desired fertilizer over the soil atop the tree and shrub roots and watering it in is usually adequate. Compacted soil should first be aerated or raked.

The most sensible and efficient way to fertilize large trees is to scatter granular fertilizer on the surface of the soil and allow rain or irrigation water to transport the nutrients to the roots. Evenly broadcast the fertilizer over the area to be fertilized – that area covering the outer two-thirds of the distance between the trunk and the drip line and extending at least 50 percent of the crown radius beyond the dripline.

NOTE: Definition: The dripline is the area directly located under the outer circumference of the tree branches. This is where the tiny rootlets are located that take up water for the tree. Trees should be watered here, not by the base of the trunk, or the tree may develop root rot.

An alternative method is to position granular fertilizer into holes in the ground that are four to twelve inches deep. These holes are constructed in a regular pattern at 2- to 3-foot separations, in the same expanse as broadcast fertilizer is applied. Divvy up the fertilizer amongst the holes. This process does not insure homogeneous coverage to all feeder roots, particularly in the upper few inches of the soil surface where the bulk of the roots occur. Strong concentrations of fertilizers in these holes can in addition injure roots located next to the hole.

A commonly used commercial method is to inject liquid fertilizers into the soil. A special injection rod is used and the fertilizer solution is injected under pressure. A comparable probe mechanism called a ‘root feeder’ is sold at most garden centers. The long probe attaches to a garden hose and water-soluble fertilizer cartridges distribute nutrients and water directly into the tree root zone. The tip of the injection needle should be inserted 4 to 12 inches into the soil at 2- to 3-foot intervals. Fertilizers suitable for liquid injection are typically more expensive per unit of nutrient and are frequently more difficult to apply than granular fertilizers.

Spikes are another alternative for tree or shrub fertilization. These are pounded into the soil with a heavy hammer and can only be used successfully when the soil is moist. The spikes do not evenly distribute fertilizer around the tree’s or shrub’s major feeder roots. These spikes are an expensive alternative. Their reputation is based on simplicity and ease of application.

Foliar feeding is a quick-fix solution when a nutrient deficiency has been found. The leaves, buds and green wood are capable of a little nutrient absorption. Foliar nutrient sprays are applied with a pressure sprayer or siphon sprayer attached to a garden hose. The greening from foliar spraying is fairly quick but not long lasting. More often than not deficiencies of micronutrients including iron, boron or manganese are corrected by seasonal foliar applications.

For natural pesticides for your healthy landscape and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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July 9th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs part 1

Maintenance plans should be produced for trees and shrubs in your landscape. An effective care program includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition, and giving well timed applications of water, mulch, and fertilizer.

Tree and shrub fertilization is especially important in urban and suburban areas of the country where soils have been altered due to construction. These urban soils tend to be heavily compacted, poorly aerated, poorly drained, and low in organic matter. Even where soils have not been affected, fertilization may be needed as part of a maintenance program to increase plant vigor or to improve root or top growth.

Trees and shrubs in residential and commercial landscape plantings are frequently fertilized to keep them healthy and attractive. Over-fertilization is prevalent, causing excessive growth, especially on young nursery stock. Trees growing in lawn areas usually receive some nutrients when the grass is fertilized. This is usually sufficient to maintain most trees in fertile soil. However, fertilization may be desirable on altered soils where unconsolidated fill material has been added or the topsoil has been removed. Managed urban areas where fallen leaves are taken off may also require a fertilization regime to enrich soil and replenish nutrients.

Fertilizer is no stand-in for environmental factors, such as sunlight and water, which must be in balance if a tree or shrub is to grow into its full potential. Trees and shrubs that are healthy and growing robustly are less susceptible to attack by insects and diseases. An application of fertilizer may, in some instances, improve the plant’s resistance to further infestations of certain pests. For example, maple trees will recover from mild cases of Verticillium wilt following applications of nitrogen fertilizer.

Fertilizer Objectives
How and when to fertilize landscape trees and shrubs depend on:
Maintenance objectives (stimulate new vs. maintain existing growth)
Tree and shrub ages (generally more for younger and less for older plants)
Plant stress levels

When to Fertilize
The top time to fertilize trees extends from late fall, after the leaves have fallen, through the winter and into early spring before vigorous new growth occurs. Fertilizer applied in the fall has a longer time period to penetrate the soil enabling the roots to more efficiently absorb it. The fertilizer is taken up by the roots during the winter and is available to the plant for growth in the spring.

Trees that are fast growing should be fertilized yearly. Well-established, mature trees usually require fertilizer once every three to four years.

Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees
Freshly planted trees typically do not need fertilizer during the 1st growing season. Almost all transplanted trees produced in the nursery have elevated levels of nutrients that last through the 1st growing season. Exuberant fertilization during the first year could harm the tree and cut back its rate of development. After the 1st year, nitrogen can be utilized in a roughly 3ft area around each tree. This will assure a satisfactory supply for continued development. Don’t apply fertilizer within 12 inches of the stem of the tree since fertilizer can burn and injure young stem tissue.

For delicious landscape and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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