Posts tagged ‘ebook’

April 12th, 2008

Understand Your Lawn

The word lawn comes from the Celtic word Launde or Lande, denoting an uncultivated or untilled and infertile area covered with ferns, broom or heath, certainly not the modern idea of what a lawn is or should be. Because this name conveyed the idea of an expanse of open space, the word gradually came to mean an open grassy glade in the forest.

It was in this sense that Tennyson spoke when he wrote, “Those long, rank dark wood walks, drenched in dew, leading from lawn to lawn.” From this evolved the idea of more or less natural, grassy open spaces, not in woodland but surrounding a house and separating it from the fields and woods. And, of course, the present-day concept of a lawn is of an unbroken expanse of manicured emerald sward, perfect as a golf green.

As a matter of fact, much of our difficulty with lawns and their upkeep comes from this ideal cherished by the average homeowner – the incredible perfection of a golf green in peak condition. For most of us, it is an impossible ideal. Nevertheless, we often see a man whose grounds are shaded by magnificent trees, struggling to produce a perfect expanse of sun-loving grasses that will match the popular concept of what should surround a suburban home.

Adverse Lawn Conditions

In the lawn we crowd as many as forty to sixty individual plants into a square foot of turf. As they struggle to survive under these conditions of intense competition, we further complicate things by cutting away the healthiest, most vigorous part of the leaf – the young tip. We do this not to make things hard for the plant but because we are trying to force a low, compact, artificially dwarfed habit of growth, entirely different from the natural upright habit of these species. (They grow 30 to 40 inches tall in the wild or in a meadow.)

These factors add up to an environment in which the individual plant is suppressed to produce a uniform whole. The grass plants can only survive if aided by you, the lawnowner. It is important that you appreciate the artificial nature of the conditions under which you must operate, so that you will know not only what to do and when, but why. A misguided homeowner is a lawn’s worst enemy.

Easy Information

At the same time, it is important to recognize that not all lawns need to be smooth expanses of green velvet turf from thaw-out in spring to freeze-up in fall. Common Kentucky Bluegrass still has a place where the extra care and expense needed to maintain high quality sod seems too much. There are degrees of lawn excellence, and the choice of the right grasses is dictated by various considerations of sun, soil and so forth.

Summary

Don’t fight nature: Grow the grasses best suited to your lawn’s situation. If grass won’t grow (because of excessive shade, etc.), then plant one of the many handsome ground covers.

Live modern: Make maximum use of the improved knowledge, grass species, lawn tools and materials available today.

The Lawn Gnome Reveals How You Can Have The Best Lawn On The Block!

Click here for FREE online Ebook

http://www.lawngnome.net/

Tags: ebook, free, manicure

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April 10th, 2008

Picking Up Where Self Pruning Leaves Off

Lots of heedless home owners believe that trees prune themselves and they should just leave it at that. Of course, they are quite right, too. Nature does see to it that trees shed members that have become excessive or shaded out or badly damaged. The forest floor is strewn with kindling wood. But the very fact that Nature does so provide only proves that pruning is necessary. Without question, man can do a better job.

When a tree “prunes itself the resultant stub, or an open scar on the parent member, seldom heals entirely unless it is quite small. Left as an entry for insects or fungus is an exposed area of inner tissues through which invasions will spread for years to come. Through such lesions the tree loses moisture by evaporation, or takes in water where it does not belong, causing decay. The only perfect seal is scar tissue, called callus in trees, put out by the cambium layer. Man’s surgery can help callus growth close over more quickly and surely than in Nature’s casual sloughing-off process.

To some people unfamiliar with them, trees are mysterious to the point of being untouchable. Many a new owner, aware that his tree is a living organism, flinches from cutting any part of it as he would from operating on his child or even his dog. Trees are much more rugged than dogs or children. They feel no pain, and they will survive a few mistakes. Coupled with some understanding of tree physiology, good intentions can soon be translated into good results.

It is not suggested that home owners go up into their big trees with ladders and ropes. Leave the high work to professionals. But by learning, with your feet on the ground, to prune your young trees and mature ones of the smaller species – say, up to fifteen-footers – you can increase and insure your property’s value at small cost. All your trees will take on new interest and meaning for you. A light labor of love today will reward you through many tomorrows. If wielding tools does not suit you, study the art and teach it to a helper. Plenty of people “prune” their own trees with a bamboo pole for a pointer.

Let proper tools be the beginning of your new wisdom. Unless you mislay them or let the neighbors borrow, one set can last you a lifetime. You may as well start with the best.

Pruning shears, the kind with heavy-duty blades so opposed that they cut closer on one side than the other. They should be at least eight inches long over-all, with broad handles for a firm grip. Ladylike “snips” are only frustrating. If your arms and fingers are short, get shears with long wooden handles. Take a fair-sized branch with you into the store and settle for no shears that will not make a half-inch cut without effort. The kind without reopening springs is least prone to rust shut. Painted red or orange rather than green, your shears will be found sooner when you drop them into grass.

Tastes differ in handsaws – straight-blade or curved – but one rule prevails for all pruning saws: at least six teeth to the inch. Coarser gauges tend to rip and tear on cuts of less than four inches, which is what most of yours will be. The so-called “speed” saws are for professionals in a hurry. For home-owner use, a 15-inch curved blade with metal or plastic grip is ideal. Good tools, such as a nice handsaw, will pick up where self pruning leaves off.

WARNING: Don’t Buy Another Book On Landscaping Till You Read The LandscapingSupply.net Website

Click here for FREE online ebook!

http://www.landscapingsupply.net/

Tags: ebook, free, website

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April 10th, 2008

Getting Rid Of Tree Parasites

Within the wonderful world of trees lies another world – that of the organisms which harbor in trees as pests and parasites. Of these there is no end in numbers or variety. New home owners are scarcely to be blamed for becoming dismayed, as they often do, upon encountering one invader after another for the first time. This writer’s counsel to clients undergoing such baptism has always been: Cheer up, few kinds of attack on trees are fatal. Study of the trees’ foes-learning to anticipate and counteract them – is a sporting proposition in itself. You may lose a few skirmishes, but there is a great deal that you yourself can do to win this war. Only occasionally will an owner, particularly of young trees, have to call in a tree-service task force.

The trees’ invaders are from two kingdoms – the animal and the vegetable. The former are insects (and one bird) ranging from king-size larvae of the big moths down to microscopic mites, mini-wasps, and scale organisms no bigger than a pin point. The vegetable hordes are fungi, bacteria, and viruses. These are all primitive plant forms, but there is one plant parasite that is anything but primitive except in its role, assigned by mankind, as a love symbol. This is mistletoe, one of the deadliest invaders of all.

Mistletoe might well be spelled “missile toe,” for its first tiny rootlets have the power to insinuate themselves into the host tree’s living tissues like the fangs of a vampire. Its pallid, waxy berries, resembling seed pearls, are carried by birds and dropped into bark crevices where they germinate under protection of their own gum. Mistletoe cannot live in soil but must steal its nourishment from a host tree’s sap veins.

Where it fastens on, grotesque swellings ensue and the host’s deformed members writhe away from the vampire as if in horror. No amount of chopping-out short of limb amputation will eradicate the mature bushes. Fortunately for trees, and for the human kissing custom, and for Oklahoma whose State “flower” mistletoe is, the deaths it inflicts are slow and painless. Its glaucous clumps aloft even confer a macabre beauty upon the elms, hackberries, walnuts, gums, pecans, mesquites, and (rarely) oaks, which it reduces to skeletons.

Mistletoes abound from lower New Jersey to Key West, all across the South, and up the west coast into Oregon. In much of this range they are accompanied by an even more picturesque growth called Spanish Moss, a member of the pineapple family. This stringy, grayish stuff hanging from trees, making them look like shaggy Arthur Rackham wizards, is not a true parasite. It is a typical air plant, of which lichens and orchids are other examples. Air plants do not suck a tree’s life-juices but can smother it to death if allowed to run rampant.

Another conspicuous parasite, this a true one, is called witches’-broom. It shows up as dense, deforming twig clumps in hackberry, larch, and honey locust. It is caused by the sting of gall mites or by spores of a mildew fungus – maybe by both. Pruning is the only cure, if there is any.

Pruning or tissue surgery can sometimes head off one other class of parasite – the canker-forming fungi. Whenever such mechanical aids are attempted they should be followed up by feeding, usually with a high-nitrogen, to help the tree quickly seal off its canker lesions with healthy new cells before remnant fungoid mycelia (thread-roots) can spread, as in animals’ fibroid tumors. Getting rid of these parasites is critical if you want to have healthy trees.

WARNING: Don’t Buy Another Book On Landscaping Till You Read The LandscapingSupply.net Website

Click here for FREE online ebook!

http://www.landscapingsupply.net/

Tags: ebook, free, ROR, website

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