Posts tagged ‘fertilizer’

July 18th, 2008

Basic Lawn Tools For A Well Manicured Lawn

You’ve just purchased your new home and it came with an expansive patch of green grass known as a lawn. Since you care about curb appeal, and the opinion of your neighbors, you purpose to have a golf course lawn all year long.
But first, you have some major and minor purchases to make. Here are the basic tools you’ll need to keep your lawn in shape for years to come.

The Lawn Mower

You need this one not only to keep the manicured look, but also to avoid fines from your city of township for an overgrown lawn. You can spend anywhere from $125 to over $1,000 or more for this tool, and it will probably be the most expensive tool in your garage.
A good quality walk behind mower with self propulsion will run you around $300. Make sure your mower is at least 5.5 horsepower and has both bag and mulch features.

The Weed Whacker

Also known as a string trimmer, the weed whacker is the tool that gives your lawn the clean edges that will set it apart. There is nothing worse than a lawn that is cut but not edged or trimmed along driveway and fence lines.
String trimmers come in electric and gas powered. Gas powered trimmers are more mobile but cost more to operate and give off fumes and more noise. There are also cordless rechargeable trimmers available that will do a fine job for smaller homes.

Power Sweeper or Blower

This may not seem like a necessity, but if you live in a part of the country where trees lose their leaves in fall, your blower will come in very handy. Most homeowners can get away with an electric corded blower for about $30, but if your lawn is larger and you have multiple large trees, you may decide to invest in a back-pack blower that packs more power for around $500.

Fertilizer Spreader

All beautiful lawns need fertilizer and weed control, and the best way to deliver these products is through a spreader. These come in handheld models, push models and tractor pulled models.
I always recommend using a broadcast-style spreader and NOT a drop spreader as the broadcasting type offer more even coverage and are easier to use. If you buy a push spreader, look for one with air filled rubber tires and a metal frame. It will cost you around $60 but will last a lifetime.

Sprinklers and Hoses

Watering the lawn is important too. Choose a sprinkler that keeps the water in large droplets and low to the ground. This will minimize water lost to drift and evaporation. Impact sprinklers are the most common and are adjustable to cover just about any size or shape area. A metal-bodied impact sprinkler will cost you about $10.
When buying a hose, you don’t need the most expensive, but definitely not the cheapest. You should buy at least 2 medium duty hoses in varying lengths so you can run 2 sprinklers simultaneously to save time.

Before you close on your new house, consider adding these basic lawns tools to your garage collection.

Al Haneson offers lawn tips about Choosing Grass Seed and Planting Grass Seed over at his blog, Life and Lawns.

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July 15th, 2008

Four Things You Must Do For Your Lawn During The Hot Months

In Summer, your lawn may turn brown and go dormant in an attempt to preserve itself in preparation for the cooling of fall, but you can keep it as green as spring by following these simple steps. Following are 4 tips for homeowners on maintaining a healthy, green lawn all summer.

Water Correctly

Assuming you want to keep your lawn green all summer, you need to water 2-3 times per week in the early morning. Sprinkling in the evenings can promote fungus as the water remains hot in the lawn during the night. A couple of heavy sprinklings during the week is much better than frequent, light watering which creates a shallow root system in the turf.

Mow Your Grass Tall and Mulch It

It’s never a good idea to cut your grass low. Never remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade in a single cutting. During the hot, dry summer, your lawn may not grow as fast as in the spring, but you should still maintain a regular mowing schedule and mulch or “recycle” the clippings back into the lawn. Mulching clippings returns natural moisture back into the turf.

Apply Organic Nitrogen

Organic nitrogen fertilizers applied in the summer help your lawn maintain its color and vigor. Organic fertilizers are naturally slow releasing so they won’t cause excess growth. Lawns need nitrogen during hot and humid periods to help fight off lawn diseases and fungus such as Red Thread and Dollar Spot. You should only follow this step if you plan to keep your lawn well irrigated during dry periods.

Be Wary of Grubs

Grub worms are the larvae of the Japanese Beetle and they will destroy a lawn if left to feed freely in high populations. Grubs feed on your turf’s root system, in a sense “sweeping its legs from under it” and killing large areas into the fall. There is no way to tell if your lawn is infested with grub worms until you see actual damage, so be sure to put down a long-lasting grub worm preventative treatment in early summer. There are organic controls available for grubs. Milky Spore is the most popular, but it only offers nominal control at best.

Keeping your lawn green during the hot months takes a bit more effort that in the spring. Keep an eye on every section of your turf to ensure nothing gets missed and you’re sure to be the envy of all your neighbors during late July and August barbecues!

Al Haneson offers lawn tips about everything from Lawn Striping to Dog Urine Spots over at his blog, Life and Lawns.

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July 15th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs Part 4

First there is the importance of a care program which includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition was considered. Then how to determine if fertilizer is needed. Then some methods of applying fertilizer are required. This article considers another method of application, placement of fertilizer and timing.

Micro-injection constitutes the direct injection of necessary nutrients into the trunk of the tree or bush. It’s an acceptable commercial use for remedying or invigorating trees demonstrating stress or decline symptoms. Nutrients can as well be solidified into gelatin capsules and imbedded in holes in the trunk. Micro-injection research is comparatively limited and outcomes are often conflicting. Boring holes, imbedding or injecting fertilizer and sealing holes could lead to trunk disfigurement and decay. Foliar applications, injections or implants would better be used only when soil application of fertilizer is unrealistic. These routines are regarded as short-term remedies for nutrient deficiencies and pest infestations. In the final analysis, suitable soil and foliar applications must be applied for a permanent cure.

Fertilizer Placement
Fertilizer should not be concentrated around the base or trunk of a tree or shrub, but should be applied over as much of the plant’s root zone as possible. For trees and shrubs, fertilizer should be applied over an area twice as large as the crown spread. Since most landscape plant roots grow in the top foot of soil, surface, but not deep application, is recommended.

Factors Affecting Fertilizer Uptake
Numerous elements impact how easily and well trees and bushes assimilate fertilizers. The most significant uptake factors are:
1.Fertilizer variant (inorganic, quick release, or fluid forms are assimilated faster than organic, slow-release, or dry forms)
2.Soil type (clay particles and organic matter assimilate or bind more nutrients than sand, so fertilizer needs to be applied more frequently in sandy soils, but with lesser rates each time due to leaching potential)
3.Soil moisture content and soil temperature (nutrient uptake is faster in moist warm soils)
4.Plant vigor (plants under stress are more ineffective in assimilating available nutrients because of damaged or decreased root systems)

Application Timing
Fertilizer should be given when plants require it, when it will be most effective, and when plants can readily take it up. Late summer and early fall fertilization may rouse new growth that is not winter hardy, and summer drought may interfere with nutrient uptake, but spring, fall, and winter applications are acceptable. A split application may be beneficial, applying half the yearly rate in early spring and the rest in the fall as or after plants go dormant.

If water is unavailable, do not fertilize at all – plants will be unable to take up the nutrients. (During a dry season, fertigation – application of fertilizer through an irrigation system can be valuable.)

Tree and bush fertilization comprises only one part of aggregate plant maintenance. Fertilization might not benefit a plant if it’s under stress from inadequate soil aeration or drainage, sodden soil, deficient light or space, or excessive pest problems. Altogether factors determining plant growth should be kept at optimal levels to guarantee plant vigor.

For container landscapes and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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July 11th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs Part 2

As part of your overall landscape plan, the importance of a care program which includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition should be considered. Here is how to determine if fertilizer is needed-
Scrutinizing the trees and shrubs visually is frequently the best general factor to apply in arriving at fertilization decisions.
Search for:
Bad leaf color (pale green to yellow)
Decreased leaf size and retention
Untimely autumn coloration and foliage drop
Decreased twig and branch emergence and retention
Overall decreased plant development and vigor
As well as detecting signs of possible nutritive deficiencies of the plants, soil and foliage analysis can be used to help ascertain or corroborate whether additional fertilization is needed.

Soil Test
Eighteen nutrients are essential for plants: carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur and nine trace minerals: iron, boron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, zinc, cobalt, nickel and chlorine. Carbon, oxygen and hydrogen function in the formation of plant cells and food creation, the first two obtained from the atmosphere and the latter gotten from water absorbed by roots.

A soil test furnishes specialized data on the potential for plant reaction to agricultural limestone and to phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. In addition it provides a verifiable basis for ascertaining how much of those elements to add once they are found to be lacking. A representative soil sampling can be a challenge to get, because most nutrient-absorbing roots of trees and bushes are in the upper six inches of the soil and may stretch out two or three times beyond the radius of the crown. Consequently, in determining the nutritional demands of trees, it’s also essential to look at soil and moisture conditions; the species, age and vigor of the plants; and previous fertilization.

Nitrogen, the most typically depleted soil nutrient, furnishes the greatest growth response. Unfortunately, soil tests or analyses for accessible nitrogen are not very dependable. Nitrogen is present in different forms (e.g. nitrate, ammonium, urea) and these forms can alter rapidly in the soil. All the same, overall tree growth, especially root and shoot elongation, leaf color and leaf size, can be heightened with increases of nitrogen. Be sure not to over fertilize with nitrogen. Don’t overcompensate with greater amounts of nitrogen when fertilizing grass, bushes and trees. Nitrate leaches readily from numerous soils and can create water pollution problems.

Fertilizer Selection
An assortment of fertilizer types exist:
Complete (N-P-K) vs. Partial (one or additional select nutrients)
Organic vs. inorganic
Fast release vs. slow release
Dry (grained, pelletized, spikes, powdered, encapsulated) vs. liquid

To help determine the type of fertilizer to apply, consider the following: type of plant, time of year, desired rate of plant reaction, application methods and equipment cost, proximity to water sources, effect of soil type and pH, type of deficiency, and results of a soil test or other sampling method.

Nearly all landscape plants profit from a slow secreting nitrogen fertilizer that can be organic or inorganic. Remember that nitrogen is easily washed through the soil, but phosphorus and potassium are not, signifying they necessitate less frequent application.

NOTE: The fertilizer package has three numbers such as, 10-10-10. They represent, respectively, the percentage by weight of nitrogen (N), available phosphorus (P2O5) and water-soluble potash (K2O). These figures help you choose the right fertilizer and determine how much to apply. For example, a fertilizer labeled as 10-10-10 contains 10 percent N, 10 percent P2O5 and 10 percent K2O. The remaining 70 percent is usually inert filler.

For healthy landscape and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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July 9th, 2008

Fertilizing Landscape Trees and Shrubs part 1

Maintenance plans should be produced for trees and shrubs in your landscape. An effective care program includes monitoring and keeping insect and disease problems in line along with restraining weed competition, and giving well timed applications of water, mulch, and fertilizer.

Tree and shrub fertilization is especially important in urban and suburban areas of the country where soils have been altered due to construction. These urban soils tend to be heavily compacted, poorly aerated, poorly drained, and low in organic matter. Even where soils have not been affected, fertilization may be needed as part of a maintenance program to increase plant vigor or to improve root or top growth.

Trees and shrubs in residential and commercial landscape plantings are frequently fertilized to keep them healthy and attractive. Over-fertilization is prevalent, causing excessive growth, especially on young nursery stock. Trees growing in lawn areas usually receive some nutrients when the grass is fertilized. This is usually sufficient to maintain most trees in fertile soil. However, fertilization may be desirable on altered soils where unconsolidated fill material has been added or the topsoil has been removed. Managed urban areas where fallen leaves are taken off may also require a fertilization regime to enrich soil and replenish nutrients.

Fertilizer is no stand-in for environmental factors, such as sunlight and water, which must be in balance if a tree or shrub is to grow into its full potential. Trees and shrubs that are healthy and growing robustly are less susceptible to attack by insects and diseases. An application of fertilizer may, in some instances, improve the plant’s resistance to further infestations of certain pests. For example, maple trees will recover from mild cases of Verticillium wilt following applications of nitrogen fertilizer.

Fertilizer Objectives
How and when to fertilize landscape trees and shrubs depend on:
Maintenance objectives (stimulate new vs. maintain existing growth)
Tree and shrub ages (generally more for younger and less for older plants)
Plant stress levels

When to Fertilize
The top time to fertilize trees extends from late fall, after the leaves have fallen, through the winter and into early spring before vigorous new growth occurs. Fertilizer applied in the fall has a longer time period to penetrate the soil enabling the roots to more efficiently absorb it. The fertilizer is taken up by the roots during the winter and is available to the plant for growth in the spring.

Trees that are fast growing should be fertilized yearly. Well-established, mature trees usually require fertilizer once every three to four years.

Fertilizing Newly Planted Trees
Freshly planted trees typically do not need fertilizer during the 1st growing season. Almost all transplanted trees produced in the nursery have elevated levels of nutrients that last through the 1st growing season. Exuberant fertilization during the first year could harm the tree and cut back its rate of development. After the 1st year, nitrogen can be utilized in a roughly 3ft area around each tree. This will assure a satisfactory supply for continued development. Don’t apply fertilizer within 12 inches of the stem of the tree since fertilizer can burn and injure young stem tissue.

For delicious landscape and other landscaping ideas visit http://www.better-landscaping.com/Site_Map.html

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April 16th, 2008

Four Things You Must Do For Your Lawn This Spring

Spring is fast approaching and if you live in the Midwest or points North, your lawn will soon begin to awaken from winter slumber.

This winter has been a long and especially harsh one, and your turf will need a little help if it’s going to look lush and green in time for early Summer picnics and horseshoes.

Here are 4 “must-dos” in regards to your lawn this March:

Aeration
I recommend every lawn be aerated in mid-March (assuming ground is thawed) to help manage thatch levels and loosen hardened and compacted soil. Thatch is the layer of dead grass, leaves and other organic material that collects just above the soil line.

Some thatch is necessary to keep turf root systems shaded and reduce soil erosion and water runoff. However, too much thatch (more than 1″) can block water absorption and create shallow rooting in the lawn.

Aeration will manage the thatch layer properly without completely eliminating it like a power-raking or de-thatching would do. I DO NOT recommend power raking except in extreme cases.

You can rent an aerator for about $60 per day and I’d recommend running across your lawn twice. (north and south and then east and west) If this is a bit steep in price for you, consider getting your neighbors to pitch in and share the time. It’s well worth the effort.

The Spring Cleanup
Your lawn probably has all kinds of garbage and litter strewed around after winter storms and winds. If you have big trees, you no doubt will have limbs and leaves scattered about.

Limbs have to be picked up by hand (don’t hit them with your mower and ruin your blade!) but leaves can be mowed over and sucked up in the bag.

This initial cutting should have the height adjusted one setting lower than your normal cutting to help rejuvenate the turf. (normal cutting height is 2.5-3″ … initial cut should be between 2-2.5″) Always bag the clippings on this intitial cutting.

Starter Fertilizer
One you’ve completed the above, it’s time to hit the lawn with a nice dose of fertilizer to start the growing process off right.

If you’re going to use synthetic fertilizer (like Scott’s or K-grow) you need to grab the 20-20-10 or 20-10-10 (also know as ‘starter fertilizer’). The first number represents nitrogen and should be the largest number of the 3.

If you want to use a more natural option this season, I’d recommend a hybrid formulation that contains 50% naturally derived products and 50% synthetic. Natural fertilizers break down slower in the soil unless temps are above 55 degrees. This does not happen much in March in the Midwest.

If you go with a hybrid blend, you will get some good release now, and some later.

Seeding
Notice that we have not put down any weed control or crab grass preventor yet? That’s because we’ll address those problems in April.

Because of this, it’s a great time to introduce some fresh cultivars of grass seed into the lawn. A general overseeding directly after the aeration is recommended to help the overall thickness of the turf.

A rate of 1-pound seed per 1,000 square feet of lawn is going to be plenty. Also, since we’re in the Spring season, the rains will do the trick in keeping the seed moist.

In addition, don’t buy cheap seed. Look at the label on the back and see the percentage of “noxious weed seed” or “inert material.” Both of those together should be less than 3% of the total contents.

You’ll be safe adding Kentucky bluegrass or perennial ryegrass to most lawns, however, I am a fan of turf-type-tall fescue blends as they tolerate drought better.

If you implement these 4 simple steps in early-to-mid March this year, you’ll be off to a great start and be able to enjoy your lawn that much sooner.

Al Haneson has 20 years experience in the Green Industry. He is author of a lawn care blog for homeowners and DIYers: Life and Lawns

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